Ford Anti-Slosh Module
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2011/10/31 12:10:44 (27311 reads)
Building

Ford uses what is called an anti-slosh or slosh module to dampen the signal from fuel level sensor in the gas tank to the fuel gauge in the dash. Without this module, the fuel gauge will bounce and move whenever the fuel level sensor float moves in the tank. This can be in acceleration, braking, turning, going up or down hills or any combination of them. This can be quite distracting and also is not how OEM cars work.

The anti-slosh or slosh module is a printed circuit board located in the instrument panel. Since the Factory Five cars are based on a 1987-1993 Mustang, this is where I got my anti-slosh module. Other Ford vehicles have the same module and there are other modules that work in the same manner for other late model Fords.

This is what the module looks like.



This version of the module slides into the back of the instrument panel into a slot which then allows the module to make contact with the circuit panel on the back of the panel.

The first thing that I needed to do was to get the wiring diagram for the slosh module so I could figure out the function of each of the modules contacts. Here is the wiring for a 1993 Mustang.



Buy tracing the printed circuit on the back of the instrument panel, I could find where they ended up. They ended up going to another connector in the dash. This connector when to the body wiring harness. This is the pinout for that connector.



The connectors in question turned out to be 1,2 and 4 which are highlighted in red. You can see this by looking at the printed circuit. The pinout numbers for both the harness connector and the anti-slosh module are placed on the picture.



Knowing this, I first removed the contact unit on the module. I did this by removing the plastic piece by first prying the contacts out of the plastic and then removing the contacts with a soldering iron.



This leaves the holes for me to solder in some new wires.



The wires will connected as follows:

4. Fuel Level Sender - This is the OEM Ford one located in the fuel tank.

S. Fuel Gauge Sender Feed - This is wire that goes to the sender feed on the fuel gauge itself.

2. Ground

1. +12V - A power source that is hot in start or run and is protected with a 15A fuse.

How this is finished and mounted is dependent on the builder wants to accomplish it. The module should be protected by something that will not allow the circuit board to be touched by anything that could carry electricity. I plan to find a plastic box at the local electronics shop and mount it in there and have the wires exit the box to a connector. The connector will then plug into its mate which will be wired into the main body harness of myCoupe.

UPDATE - CONNECTOR

I found a set of connectors that will solder directly into the holes of the OEM connection. You can purchase these from Digi-Key Digi-Key.

The parts consist of:

Molex 7 position Connection Header (26-48-1071)
Digi-Key Part Number WM4405-ND



Molex 7 position Connection Housing (09-50-7071)
Digi-Key Part Number WM1569-ND



Molex connection Terminal (08-50-0106)
Digi-Key Part Number WM2300-ND



The first thing to do is to remove the two pins from the header that don't have a hole in the circuit board. You can remove the pins by using needle nose pliers. Grab the pin with the pliers and gently pull on the pin. Use more force until the pin slides out. You can tell which pins to remove and the alignment of the header by looking at the following image.



Then place the header into the board making sure its feet are flat against the circuit board. Then apply some water based soldering paste on the ends of the pins and using a soldering iron, apply silver solder to the pins.



You then take the housing and five pins and start the process of wiring the housing.



Using the wiring diagram from the 1993 Ford Mustang, you end up with a final product. To make the connector more secure, you put an empty connector to match the pin that is not used.



All that would be left to do is to place the unit in a plastic box or cover the bottom with epoxy and secure it.

  4   Article ID : 37
Type 65 Hood Locks
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2011/08/29 12:26:41 (10761 reads)
Building

The hood on the Factory Five Type 65 is a front flip hood and used latches from a Triumph GT6. The one thing that I felt was lacking was the ability to lock the hood. In my research, I found that the Triumph GT6 had locks on the hood. I also found a photo which gave the exact dimensions for the relationship between the latch and lock so that they functioned as designed.





I took the drawing and printed it out on a transparent packing label sheet. I cut the drawing into the two sides. I then stuck them in place and cut the holes and lock openings.





I sent the CAD drawings to a machine shop and they cut them out of 16 gauge steel. They also bent them into the correct shape. I did this as I wanted something substantial to hold everything in place other than fiberglass.



These two photos show how the brackets are mounted along with the lock.





The finished product looks like this.





Parts

Triumph GT6 Bonnet Catch Assembly (607663) Qty : 2


Triumph GT6 Bonnet Lock Set (562116) Qty : 1


Unavailable For Now

Drawings

Hole Positioning
Bracket Design
Bracket Cutting


  5   Article ID : 33
Making Ford OEM Like Fuel Lines
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2009/08/09 22:36:17 (7613 reads)
Building

Ford OEM fuel lines are made with quick connects that allow for easy connection and disconnection. It also removes the need for fuel injection clamps. This article shows how to make Ford OEM like fuel lines for Factory Five Mark 3 Roadster and Type 65 Coupe. It also documents the complete fuel system that I used in myCoupe.

The Ford OEM fuel line use nylon lines encased in rubber fuel hose. At the end of each nylon line there is a quick connect. The quick connects are pressed into the nylon time.

TOOLS

There are two main tools that are required to make Ford OEM like fuel lines.

The first is a fuel line repair tool that presses the quick connect into the nylon fuel line. You could do it manually heating the nylon line, but it won't be as easy. Always select the right tool for the job. The tool I use is one from Dorman Products. It is part number 800-301.



The other tool is one that creates the flares on the steel fuel lines that the quick connects fit. It uses a hydraulic ram to make the flares. It works well and is carried by many auto tool suppliers. It comes from Mastercool and the part number is 71300.



Other tools needed are a heat gun, a tubing cutter (a sharp knife will work) and scissors.

PARTS

Fuel Pump : Ford Racing M-9407-C50
Fuel Filter : Motorcraft FG-1083
Fuel Filter Bracket : Ford 3W4Z-9180-AA

REAR

Starting at the rear, the first thing to do is mount the fuel filter bracket and install the fuel filter.



I cut a piece of 1/8 inch steel plate and drilled a hole the same size as the fuel filter bracket. I welded a bolt on the back of the plate so it would be easier to bolt on the fuel filter bracket. I fitted it to location on the frame as shown in the picture. I then welded it in a cleaned up the weld so the fuel filter bracket would site flat.





FRONT

  0   Article ID : 29
Custom Fuel Filler Pipe
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2009/06/13 10:33:05 (10733 reads)
Building

A common complaint by builders is that they have problems filling their completed cars with fuel. They have to pump very slow or they risk the problem of over pressuring the tank and get fuel splashed back out the filler.


This problem occurs because of need to cut the Mustang fuel filler pipe to make it fit the Roadster and Coupe. The cutting of the pipe and adding an extension removes the venting feature of the Mustang fuel filler pipe. Lets take a look on how the stock system works.



The system is made up of an outer steel tube which has an attaching ring, an inner rubber tube which contains a rollover value, a flow/vent tube, and a filler/cap adapter. Here is how it works. When you remove the fuel filler cap, you unscrew it from the filler/cap adapter. You insert the fuel nozzle into a hole in the filler/cap adapter. This moves the flapper valve at teh bottom of the filler/cap adapter. When you pull trigger on the fuel nozzle, fuel flows down the flow/vent tube, the inner rubber hose and past the rollover valve and into the tank. As the fuel displaces the air in the tank, it needs to go somewhere. The inner rubber hose is much smaller than the outer steel tube. The space between the two acts as a vent. The air goes up this space and through holes in the flow/vent tube and filler/cap adapter.


When builders modify the Mustang filler pipe, it is the air venting system that they remove. This doesn't allow the air to escape properly when filling thus pressuring the fuel tank. In the modified system, when you stop pumping, the pressure needs to go somewhere and it ends back up the pipe and over the person or the side of the car. I did some research and came up with a different solution.


My solution is to disassemble the fuel pipe and removing all the components. Then modifying the pipe to fit and reinstalling the pieces.


1. Take the 1987-1995 Mustang fuel filler pipe and clean it. Remove and grease or dirt.



2. Locate and drill out all the welds that hold the mounting ring to the pipe. There should be four. I started off by drilling a locating mark with a 1/8 inch drill bit. Just going deep enough to make a dimple. I then used a 5/16 inch drill bit to drill though on the mounting ring welds. Do not drill through the filler pipe.



3. Use a pipe that has a 2-1/4 inch ID and is 1-1/2 2 inches deep to break the drilled welds. I used a piece of 2-1/2 inch exhaust pipe. Place the pipe from the top and pound down until the mounting ring moves down the pipe.



4. Locate the dimple on the filler tube as shown in the following two pictures. It should be in line with where the bronze coloured flapper is mounted in the pipe. Mark a line from the top of the pipe down 3 inches. This is where you will open the pipe to remove the components.




5. Use a 60 grit flapper wheel on a grinder and remove the metal. Go slow and gentle. You can tell if you are going too fast if the metal discolours. Keep going in light grinds checking regularly. When you see the metal start to deform, then you have it very thin. This can also be seen in discolouration even when grinding lightly. When it is this thin, you should be able to use a small pick or nail to open up sections of the pipe. Keep grinding those sections that are thin enough yet, but make sure that you don't touch those sections that are open or you can damage the internal components.



6. Once you have the pipe opened up, mark a line 3 inches from the top of the pipe at the location of the dimple. Then from the dimple mark 90 degrees around the pipe on both sides of the pipe. Take a hack saw and gently cut the pipe.



7. Pry the pipe back. You should be able to remove the filler/cap adapter easily. The use a screwdriver and placing it in the vent hole of the flow/vent pipe, pry the flow/vent pipe and inner rubber hose out of the steel pipe. It will be hard at first, but easier once the rubber tube is past the bend in the steel pipe.



You will now have all the internal pieces removed.



At the 3 inch location where you cut with the hack saw, cut through the pipe. Then you can remove the mounting adapter.



The pipe is 2 inch OD and someone could get a muffler shop to bend the pipe to your exact situation. Then using a muffler tube expander, open the top and put all the pieces back together.


More to follow...

  0   Article ID : 28
Radiator Hoses
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2009/03/26 7:16:16 (16936 reads)
Building

The radiator in the Factory Five Type 65 coupe is quite a distance from the engine when compared to other cars. The kit comes with an flexible metal pipe to be cut to fit. Since my plan was to use as many factory parts as possible, I sought to find Ford hoses that could be used with as little modifications as possible. Here is my solution.

The first thing that you have to think of when designing a cooling system is how will the system be filled? If you don't have the filler as the highest point in the system, then you might have problems getting rid of all the air that might be there when you fill it. I have seen many builders complain that they are having a hard time "burping" the cooling system, so this was a top priority.

The solution is a de-gas tank. This is a "purge" canister positioned at the highest point in the cooling system. This allows the coolant circuits to be filled more completely than a conventional system. The canister bleeds off the trapped vapors that tend to accumulate in a sealed system as a result of normal thermal cycling.



All Mustangs since 1996 have this type of system. So the first part in the Type 65 Coupe coolant system is a overflow de-gas tank from a 1996-2004 Mustang.



For a de-gas tank to work, it must be the highest part of the system. With the low hood of the coupe, this makes it very difficult to use the 1987-1993 Mustang upper coolant hose.



The 1987-1993 radiator hose (circled) runs on top of the alternator and would cause clearance problems with the hood. It would also prevent mounting the de-gas tank in a location that would make the filler cap the highest point in the system.

In 1994, when they redesigned the Mustang, they lowered the hood. This lowering caused Ford to use the accessory mounting brackets from the 1993 Thunderbird. It also caused them to redesign the upper radiator hose (circled) to go beside the alternator.



In my system, this lowered the hose so it would be below the de-gas tank. So this is the hose that I used.

The problem with using the 1993 Thunderbird, 1994-1995 Mustang accessory brackets is that they are not as common as others and can be more expensive to purchase along with all the unique hoses and connectors too.

There is another Ford vehicle that uses a similar routed hose and is common. The F-150. So for my design, I used these accessory brackets.





One of the things that was needed to complete the radiator hoses is some extensions. This is because the radiator is so far forward from the engine.

The "T" pipe is for the lower radiator hoses and the straight pipe is for the upper rad hoses.



Dimensions and drawings for the pipes.



UPPER RAD HOSES



* Part Numbers *
F4ZZ-8260-A (Motorcraft KM-2432)
F7ZZ-8260-BB (Motorcraft KM-3259)

The upper rad hoses consist of a 1994-1995 Mustang upper rad hose (KM-2432) which goes from the thermostat housing to the aluminum connector. The hose goes on with no modifications. A 1987-1993 Mustang upper rad hose (KM-3259) goes from the aluminum connector to the radiator inlet. KM-3259 needs to be cut as shown.



LOWER RAD HOSES









* Part Numbers *
F4ZZ-8286-A (Motorcraft KM-2831)

The lower rad hose consists of a 1994-1995 Mustang lower rad hose (KM-2831) which runs from the radiator outlet to the aluminum connector. This hose needs to be cut as shown.


[extend] [extend]

  5   Article ID : 27
EFI Hood Clearance
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2009/02/01 0:24:14 (10143 reads)
Building

Using a Ford 5.0 GT-40 EFI system in a Type 65 Coupe can cause hood clearance problems. This will document what you can and cannot use to install into the Coupe.


Note:
* This information only applies to GT-40 intake systems.
* It is assumed that a phenolic spacer of between 3/8 and 1/2 inch in thickness.
* You plan to use the EGR system. (There is no reason not to use EGR on a 5.0 EFI engine and not using one can cause problems.)
* EFI computer is from 1989 to 1993.
* Engine mounts are from convertible Mustang.

Since the majority of the Ford performance EFI systems use the 1989 to 1993 computer, then the starting point for the design is a A9L or A3M1 Ford Mustang computer. With this mind, the plan is to use parts that are compatible with those engine/computers.


The starting point was:
PART(S)
* 1993 Cobra GT-40 lower intake manifold (M-9461-A50, F3ZZ-9424-D)
* 1993 Cobra GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51, F3ZZ-9424-C)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-A302)
* 67mm EGR spacer (M-9474-A50)


RESULT

With this combination, there was clearance problems. The top of the throttle body and EGR spacer both hit the hood preventing the hood from closing.





The back of the EGR valve hit the frame.



SOLUTION

In 1994 the Ford Mustang had body changes. The nose of the car was sloped downloads. Ford changed the 5.0 intake so it would fit under the new hood. Since the hood of the Type 65 Coupe was also sloped downward, it was logical to see what solutions could be applied from the 1994-1995 Mustang.


PART(S)

The first step was to use the Ford Racing inlet adapter (M-9927-A50) which is required to fit a pre 1994 GT-40 intake on a 1994-1995 Mustang.


DELETE
* 67mm EGR spacer (M-9474-A50)
ADD
* Ford Racing inlet adapter (M-9927-A50)


RESULT

With this change, there was clearance problems with EGR boss on the adapter.



SOLUTION #1

You can keep this combination if you grind down the bottom of the EGR boss to gain clearance between the elbow and the valve cover.


SOLUTION #2

You can keep this if you change to stock aluminum EFI valve covers or the stamped steel ones.


SOLUTION #3

If you want, you can change to the 1994-1995 intake system.



PART(S)
DELETE
* GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-A302)
ADD
* 1994-1995 Cobra R GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51, F4ZZ-9424-C)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-B50)
RESULT

This solved all the clearance problems with the hood. This setup requires that you use 1994-1995 stamped steel valve covers. They can be the plain or COBRA stamped ones. This setup gives the least amount of problems with clearance. The trick is to use the upper intake, throttle body, EGR, and throttle linkage from a 1994-1995 5.0 Mustang 5.0 and everything else from a 1989-1993 5.0 Mustang. I plan to give a full parts list when I get the chance to document it.




With this combination, you can use the intake hose from a 1987-1993 5.0 Mustang. I created my own mounting bracket, but you could use your own design.



If you have any questions or comments, please post them

  5   Article ID : 25
Wiper Design
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2008/11/17 16:26:36 (23096 reads)
Building

The Factory Five Type 65 Coupe had an option of an old style cable driven wiper setup. I didn't want to use that setup so I looked for a different solution. This documents what I came up with.

The first part of the design is dependent on my choice of using the stock 1987-1993 Mustang steering column. Using the stock steering column allows me to use the multi-function switch with the wiper controls. I found out that there are two different multi-function switches for the Mustang steering column. The first is one that came on the 1987-1987 Mustangs. The second is one that came on the 1990-1993 Mustangs. The 1987-1989 one is shorter in length and is the one I have chosen as it fits with the wheel that I selected.


1987-1989 Mustang



1990-1993 Mustang


The different switches are also different in their wiring. So you need to wire it to match the switch.



The switch also means that you need to use the internal governor which is the same from 1987-1993.



The second part of the design was to use a 1994 Mustang wiper motor. The 1987 to 1993 Mustang wiper motor used two connectors. The 1994 Mustang wiper motor uses just one. It is a cleaner design. It is also still available from Motorcraft. To hook up the motor to the switch and internal governor, some changes in wiring need to be done.



You will also need to fabricate a motor mount to secure the motor to the frame/body.

The third part of the design is the linkage. I thought that since the coupe was designed in 1964 that I would try to use linkage arms from a 1965 Mustang. This proved to be the right decision. The linkage is still available new from vintage Mustang suppliers. The installation requires some manufacture. Two brackets are required to be welded to the frame to bolt the linkage.



To attach the motor to the linkage, it uses a Z bar to connect the two pieces. I found that the Z bar for the 1965 Mustang and the 1994 Mustang were very similar.





The only thing that is needed to be done is to move the linkage arm pin needs to be removed from the 1965 Z bar and moved to the 1994 Z bar.

Grind and drill out the pin on the 1994 Z bar. Grind off the end of the 1965 Z bar and then press or hammer out the pin.



Place the 1965 pin into the 1994 arm. Secure it in place with a weld. When finished you have a 1994 Z bar with a 1965 pin.



Then all the different pieces need to be wired together.



When all this is done, you have wipers.


  0   Article ID : 22
Ford OEM Terminals
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2008/11/06 10:42:05 (3544 reads)
Building

Ford O.E.M. Terminals
These are the most common Ford O.E.M. terminals that are used in wiring harnesses.








E8EB-14461-AA

Male, .110 Pin Diameter, 14-16GA, Mates with E8EB-14488-JA

Suppliers:











E8EB-14488-JA

Female, .110 Socket Diameter, 14-16GA, Mates with E8EB-14461-AA

Suppliers:





  0   Article ID : 21
Plugging Thermactor Holes
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2008/06/04 21:22:03 (9234 reads)
Building

Ford engines have a Thermactor "smog pump" system that reduces hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide content of of exhaust gases by allowing the combustion of unburned gases to continue after they leave the combustion chamber. The system uses a accessory belt driven pump that delivers secondary air to the exhaust system. The Thermactor pump does draw some horsepower, but dyno tests show that it is only about three hp.



If you are not using catalytic converter(s) as in the case of a kit car and the engine was originally came with it, then you will need to remove all the pieces and plug the air ports in the back of the cylinder head. This describes a trick to clean the holes and then plug them.

The air ports are location on the back of the engine highlighted with the red circles.



I bought the correct plugs for the head. These allow for bolts to be screwed into the plugs after they are installed. If you wanted to, you could use the correct size pipe plugs. Just be sure the use a proper sealant. I used the Ford plugs as they came coated with the sealant.



One of the problems with the holes is that the threads can be covered with crud.



To clean off the crud, I took an old plumbers pipe brush and cut off the handle. I can then mount it into a drill. The piece of flat steel was used to screw in the fitting.



I then insert the brush into the hold while slowly turning the drill. Using forward and reverse on the drill, I continued until the threads where clean.



I took the flat steel piece that I made and inserted it into the plug. I used pliers to turn the plug until it was seated in the hole.


  0   Article ID : 19
Accessory Drive Brackets
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2008/05/29 12:35:29 (5313 reads)
Building

This article is for those who want to use shorty headers for your Factory Five Racing engine.

I found that if you use brackets from a 5.0 F-150 Ford truck, that you can use shorty headers and have no clearance problems.

With this setup, you can use a 1994-1995 and possibly later Mustang A/C compressor.



[extend] [extend]

  0   Article ID : 18
Mounting Body to Axle Hose Bracket
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2007/12/06 16:38:22 (1998 reads)
Building

Tools: drill, 3/8" drill bit, 1/4" drill bit, center punch

If you plan to use one of the new Ford Racing 8.8" traction-lok rear axle assembly's ( M-4006-B355, M-4006-B373 or M-4006-C373 ) and use the 5-log front/rear super heavy-duty “COBRA” disc brake conversion kit( M-2300-K ) then one of the things that you will need to do is to drill locating holes for the body to axle hose bracket. Since the axle is a new assembly and for multiple configurations, the holes for the body to axle hose bracket are not drilled.

The body to axle hose bracket is item #34 in the M-2300-K kit. It was Ford part number E8ZZ-2282-A which has been superseded by part number F4ZZ-2282-B.



The location of the bracket can be difficult because of the bends and location of where the bracket has to fit. I have created a template to assist you in locating and drilling the required holes.



1. Download the following PDF file which contains the template. Template File

2. Print the PDF file.

3. Cut out the template.



4. Working from the bottom of the axle, mount the template in the following location.



5. Secure the template using tape.

6. Using a center punch, mark the locations of the two holes.

7. Drill the holes to the required sizes.

8. Mount the bracket. You may need to bend the locating tab to make it fit in it's hole.

  0   Article ID : 15
Front Nose Mount
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2007/05/17 23:32:56 (6102 reads)
Building

TOOLS: 3/8" drill bit, drill, small square with level, marker, ruler

1. The fog light mount doubles as the hinges for the nose.

2. The frame mounts for the nose hinges are 30 5/8" apart center to center.

3. Lay the nose down on a flat level surface.



4. Check that the nose is level using the a level part of the small square.

5. Using the small square, find the highest points of the fog light recess.



6. Then mark the top and bottom edges of the recess to get your vertical alignment.

7. Find a used 5" orbital sanding disc. Finer grits work better.



8. Fold the sanding disc in half.



9. Mark the fold line. You can fold the sanding disc over a ruler, lay it down and then mark it.





10. Flatten the sanding disc and place a mark on each end of the line, 11/16" from the edge.



11. Place the sanding disc in the fog light opening with the line side visible.

12. Line up the vertical line on the sanding disc with the lines that you made on the top and bottom edge of the opening.



13. Drill two 3/8" holes at each mark on the vertical line of the sanding disc.



14. Fit the brackets on the car. You will have to bend the lower tabs to fit the curve in the nose.





15. Use a permanent marker to mark the holes you drilled in the body on the brackets. Remove the brackets.



16. Find the center location on the squared section on the front of the bracket.



17. Using that center mark, make a center line down the front of the bracket. I used a piece of paper with a line and then matched the center line on the paper up with the center mark on the bracket and then made a mark on the bottom.





18. Using the mark for the hole that you made, make an intersecting point on the vertical line on the bracket.



19. Drill the 3/8 hole on the upper hole only.





[extend]

  0   Article ID : 12
Explorer Intake Manifold Baffle Fix
Posted by Ron Schofield on 2007/02/05 23:05:38 (31521 reads)
Building

UPDATE: 2008.07.21 The baffle has been discontinued and no longer available from Ford.

One of the popular intake manifolds for the Ford 5.0 litre engine is the GT-40.

Not all lower intakes are the same. Some of the early ones had two small baffles under the EGR runner and PCV valve. This lead to excessive oil consumption. Later manifolds had a large baffle that solved the problem. The two manifold configurations can be viewed in the following photograph.



If you have an older intake manifold, there is a solution to update the intake manifold to the newer type. Ford released the larger baffle as a service part [ F6TZ-6L678-AA ].



These are still available from your Ford parts department. They are fairly inexpensive.

Here is the process to install the baffle.

1. Purchase the service baffle.

2. Using an old slot screwdriver or sharp chisel and a hammer, remove the existing baffles. Slowly lift the baffle bolts, lifting them using the screwdriver and hammer. Work them in a North, East, South and West pattern. The bolts are pressed in and have a spiral pattern. Working them out in this pattern will keep from damaging the holes in the aluminum manifold. Remove both existing baffles. Save one of the baffle bolts.



3. Place the service baffle on the intake manifold in the location were it is to go. Place the baffle bolts in the existing holes. There is one baffle bolt that doesn't have a hole drilled for it. The bolt is circled in the following picture.



4. Using a hammer, pound the circled bolt so that it makes an indentation in the intake manifold. Remove the baffle.



5. Center punch and drill a hole in the location of the indentation. Drill a 7/32 inch hole to a depth of 7/16 inch.



6. Place the baffle in the desired location. Hammer in the 5 baffle bolts. Take the single baffle bolt that you took from one of the small baffles and place it in the empty space in the service baffle and hammer it in place.



You now have the updated intake manifold.

[extend]

  5   Article ID : 10