Using a Ford 5.0 GT-40 EFI system in a Type 65 Coupe can cause hood clearance problems. This will document what you can and cannot use to install into the Coupe.

Note:
* This information only applies to GT-40 intake systems.
* It is assumed that a phenolic spacer of between 3/8 and 1/2 inch in thickness.
* You plan to use the EGR system. (There is no reason not to use EGR on a 5.0 EFI engine and not using one can cause problems.)
* EFI computer is from 1989 to 1993.
* Engine mounts are from convertible Mustang.

Since the majority of the Ford performance EFI systems use the 1989 to 1993 computer, then the starting point for the design is a A9L or A3M1 Ford Mustang computer. With this mind, the plan is to use parts that are compatible with those engine/computers.

The starting point was:
PART(S)
* 1993 Cobra GT-40 lower intake manifold (M-9461-A50, F3ZZ-9424-D)
* 1993 Cobra GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51, F3ZZ-9424-C)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-A302)
* 67mm EGR spacer (M-9474-A50)

RESULT

With this combination, there was clearance problems. The top of the throttle body and EGR spacer both hit the hood preventing the hood from closing.

The back of the EGR valve hit the frame.

SOLUTION

In 1994 the Ford Mustang had body changes. The nose of the car was sloped downloads. Ford changed the 5.0 intake so it would fit under the new hood. Since the hood of the Type 65 Coupe was also sloped downward, it was logical to see what solutions could be applied from the 1994-1995 Mustang.

PART(S)

The first step was to use the Ford Racing inlet adapter (M-9927-A50) which is required to fit a pre 1994 GT-40 intake on a 1994-1995 Mustang.

DELETE
* 67mm EGR spacer (M-9474-A50)
ADD
* Ford Racing inlet adapter (M-9927-A50)

RESULT

With this change, there was clearance problems with EGR boss on the adapter.

SOLUTION #1

You can keep this combination if you grind down the bottom of the EGR boss to gain clearance between the elbow and the valve cover.

SOLUTION #2

You can keep this if you change to stock aluminum EFI valve covers or the stamped steel ones.

SOLUTION #3

If you want, you can change to the 1994-1995 intake system.

PART(S)
DELETE
* GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-A302)
ADD
* 1994-1995 Cobra R GT-40 upper intake manifold (M-9424-A51, F4ZZ-9424-C)
* 65mm throttle body (M-9926-B50)
RESULT

This solved all the clearance problems with the hood. This setup requires that you use 1994-1995 stamped steel valve covers. They can be the plain or COBRA stamped ones. This setup gives the least amount of problems with clearance. The trick is to use the upper intake, throttle body, EGR, and throttle linkage from a 1994-1995 5.0 Mustang 5.0 and everything else from a 1989-1993 5.0 Mustang. I plan to give a full parts list when I get the chance to document it.

With this combination, you can use the intake hose from a 1987-1993 5.0 Mustang. I created my own mounting bracket, but you could use your own design.

If you have any questions or comments, please post them

The Factory Five Type 65 Coupe had an option of an old style cable driven wiper setup. I didn't want to use that setup so I looked for a different solution. This documents what I came up with.

The first part of the design is dependent on my choice of using the stock 1987-1993 Mustang steering column. Using the stock steering column allows me to use the multi-function switch with the wiper controls. I found out that there are two different multi-function switches for the Mustang steering column. The first is one that came on the 1987-1987 Mustangs. The second is one that came on the 1990-1993 Mustangs. The 1987-1989 one is shorter in length and is the one I have chosen as it fits with the wheel that I selected.

1987-1989 Mustang


1990-1993 Mustang

The different switches are also different in their wiring. So you need to wire it to match the switch.



The switch also means that you need to use the internal governor which is the same from 1987-1993.



The second part of the design was to use a 1994 Mustang wiper motor. The 1987 to 1993 Mustang wiper motor used two connectors. The 1994 Mustang wiper motor uses just one. It is a cleaner design. It is also still available from Motorcraft. To hook up the motor to the switch and internal governor, some changes in wiring need to be done.



You will also need to fabricate a motor mount to secure the motor to the frame/body.

The third part of the design is the linkage. I thought that since the coupe was designed in 1964 that I would try to use linkage arms from a 1965 Mustang. This proved to be the right decision. The linkage is still available new from vintage Mustang suppliers. The installation requires some manufacture. Two brackets are required to be welded to the frame to bolt the linkage.



To attach the motor to the linkage, it uses a Z bar to connect the two pieces. I found that the Z bar for the 1965 Mustang and the 1994 Mustang were very similar.





The only thing that is needed to be done is to move the linkage arm pin needs to be removed from the 1965 Z bar and moved to the 1994 Z bar.

Grind and drill out the pin on the 1994 Z bar. Grind off the end of the 1965 Z bar and then press or hammer out the pin.



Place the 1965 pin into the 1994 arm. Secure it in place with a weld. When finished you have a 1994 Z bar with a 1965 pin.



Then all the different pieces need to be wired together.



When all this is done, you have wipers.

Ford O.E.M. Terminals
These are the most common Ford O.E.M. terminals that are used in wiring harnesses.

E8EB-14461-AA
	Male, .110 Pin Diameter, 14-16GA, Mates with E8EB-14488-JA Suppliers:

E8EB-14488-JA
	Female, .110 Socket Diameter, 14-16GA, Mates with E8EB-14461-AA Suppliers:

You hear about all the items that are made in China and quality problems. The engine that I purchased had the damper replaced. The replacement damper was made in China, it was even stamped as such. The China damper was made with a split rubber, where as the Ford damper is a one piece affair. When the China damper was manufactured, the split rubber wasn't installed properly. One end of the rubber ended sticking up and to correct the problem, they tried pounding the rubber in place. I won't be purchasing any auto parts made in China if I can help it.


China damper on left, Ford damper on right. You can see in the top circle where the rubber isn't straight. In the bottom circle you can see where the end of the seals were forced down.


China marking. Close up photo of the damage where the end of the seal was pounded in place.


Seal not straight in China damper.


In the circle you can see where the seal is recessed and that the pounding on the other side didn't solve the problem.[extend] [extend] [extend]

Ford engines have a Thermactor "smog pump" system that reduces hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide content of of exhaust gases by allowing the combustion of unburned gases to continue after they leave the combustion chamber. The system uses a accessory belt driven pump that delivers secondary air to the exhaust system. The Thermactor pump does draw some horsepower, but dyno tests show that it is only about three hp.



If you are not using catalytic converter(s) as in the case of a kit car and the engine was originally came with it, then you will need to remove all the pieces and plug the air ports in the back of the cylinder head. This describes a trick to clean the holes and then plug them.

The air ports are location on the back of the engine highlighted with the red circles.



I bought the correct plugs for the head. These allow for bolts to be screwed into the plugs after they are installed. If you wanted to, you could use the correct size pipe plugs. Just be sure the use a proper sealant. I used the Ford plugs as they came coated with the sealant.



One of the problems with the holes is that the threads can be covered with crud.



To clean off the crud, I took an old plumbers pipe brush and cut off the handle. I can then mount it into a drill. The piece of flat steel was used to screw in the fitting.



I then insert the brush into the hold while slowly turning the drill. Using forward and reverse on the drill, I continued until the threads where clean.



I took the flat steel piece that I made and inserted it into the plug. I used pliers to turn the plug until it was seated in the hole.