Since I am finishing my Coupe to the level where I can show it, I wanted to use new or near new non-donor parts. I bought new parts from the Ford Dealership or looked on eBay for parts in very good condition. Sometimes though you have a part that is obsolete from Ford, it's not a common part that would apprear on eBay, and the chance of finding one in good condition is almost impossible. The rear center brakeline bracket (E6ZZ-2073-A) is one of those parts.
I was lucky and was able to find someone who located the bracket in a junkyard for me. They know who they are so, "Thank You". It was very rusty, but not damaged.

After a little bit of sandblasting, it's easy to see that this bracket can still be used.


I could have painted it and used it, but since I wanted to show the car, it required some work to make it look like it came from the parts department at the local Ford dealership. I started by using a flat metal file, a round metal file, a orbital sander with 80 grit paper, and some emery cloth that plumbers use to clean copper pipe. After a little work..

I then gave it a final sandblasting to soften the look of the surface of the bracket. At this point, I only touch the bracket with Vinyl gloves to keep any oils on my hand from affecting the paint. I currently use Stanley HandHelpers that come in packages of 100.
Once sandblasted, I applied a couple of coats of Self Etching Primer from Eastwood. I then sanded the part down so that the primer filled in the low spots. I continued this until the surface of the bracket's surface was smooth.

The next step was to give the bracket the finish that is close to what it would be from the factory. Ford liked to protect some of it's brackets using zinc dichromate plating. It's the S36 extension to the Ford part numbers. To duplicate this coating, or to give the impression of it, I used the Golden Cad system from Eastwood. It uses three colour coats put on in the correct order and then a coat of clear.
The first coat is a full base coat of gold. This is sprayed as a full coat to cover the primer. Two light coats are good.

The next coat is a random light coat of Red Zinc Dichromate Tint. You want it to have some parts that are light and some that are very light. You should always see the gold through the coat. If you make the coat of red too thick, you can always let it dry and spray a light coat of gold over the red.
The next coat is a random light coat of Green Zinc Dichromate Tint. This coat can be a little thicker than the red coat. Again, if you spray too much green, you can spray a little red and/or green. This isn't a bad thing as it will give some depth to the colouring. It helps to use a bracket or part that has a factory coating of Zinc Dichromate as a guide to your colouring.

When you are happy with the colouring, the final coat is the clear coat of DiamondClear from Eastwood. Once the part is dry, you should have something that the average or even above average car guy couldn't tell from the factory piece. Below is a picture of some factory pieces and some pieces that were done with the Golden Cad system.