Ford uses what is called an anti-slosh or slosh module to dampen the signal from fuel level sensor in the gas tank to the fuel gauge in the dash. Without this module, the fuel gauge will bounce and move whenever the fuel level sensor float moves in the tank. This can be in acceleration, braking, turning, going up or down hills or any combination of them. This can be quite distracting and also is not how OEM cars work.

The anti-slosh or slosh module is a printed circuit board located in the instrument panel. Since the Factory Five cars are based on a 1987-1993 Mustang, this is where I got my anti-slosh module. Other Ford vehicles have the same module and there are other modules that work in the same manner for other late model Fords.

This is what the module looks like.



This version of the module slides into the back of the instrument panel into a slot which then allows the module to make contact with the circuit panel on the back of the panel.

The first thing that I needed to do was to get the wiring diagram for the slosh module so I could figure out the function of each of the modules contacts. Here is the wiring for a 1993 Mustang.



Buy tracing the printed circuit on the back of the instrument panel, I could find where they ended up. They ended up going to another connector in the dash. This connector when to the body wiring harness. This is the pinout for that connector.



The connectors in question turned out to be 1,2 and 4 which are highlighted in red. You can see this by looking at the printed circuit. The pinout numbers for both the harness connector and the anti-slosh module are placed on the picture.



Knowing this, I first removed the contact unit on the module. I did this by removing the plastic piece by first prying the contacts out of the plastic and then removing the contacts with a soldering iron.



This leaves the holes for me to solder in some new wires.



The wires will connected as follows:

4. Fuel Level Sender - This is the OEM Ford one located in the fuel tank.

S. Fuel Gauge Sender Feed - This is wire that goes to the sender feed on the fuel gauge itself.

2. Ground

1. +12V - A power source that is hot in start or run and is protected with a 15A fuse.

How this is finished and mounted is dependent on the builder wants to accomplish it. The module should be protected by something that will not allow the circuit board to be touched by anything that could carry electricity. I plan to find a plastic box at the local electronics shop and mount it in there and have the wires exit the box to a connector. The connector will then plug into its mate which will be wired into the main body harness of myCoupe.

UPDATE - CONNECTOR

I found a set of connectors that will solder directly into the holes of the OEM connection. You can purchase these from Digi-Key Digi-Key.

The parts consist of:

Molex 7 position Connection Header (26-48-1071)
Digi-Key Part Number WM4405-ND



Molex 7 position Connection Housing (09-50-7071)
Digi-Key Part Number WM1569-ND



Molex connection Terminal (08-50-0106)
Digi-Key Part Number WM2300-ND



The first thing to do is to remove the two pins from the header that don't have a hole in the circuit board. You can remove the pins by using needle nose pliers. Grab the pin with the pliers and gently pull on the pin. Use more force until the pin slides out. You can tell which pins to remove and the alignment of the header by looking at the following image.



Then place the header into the board making sure its feet are flat against the circuit board. Then apply some water based soldering paste on the ends of the pins and using a soldering iron, apply silver solder to the pins.



You then take the housing and five pins and start the process of wiring the housing.



Using the wiring diagram from the 1993 Ford Mustang, you end up with a final product. To make the connector more secure, you put an empty connector to match the pin that is not used.



All that would be left to do is to place the unit in a plastic box or cover the bottom with epoxy and secure it.

The hood on the Factory Five Type 65 is a front flip hood and used latches from a Triumph GT6. The one thing that I felt was lacking was the ability to lock the hood. In my research, I found that the Triumph GT6 had locks on the hood. I also found a photo which gave the exact dimensions for the relationship between the latch and lock so that they functioned as designed.





I took the drawing and printed it out on a transparent packing label sheet. I cut the drawing into the two sides. I then stuck them in place and cut the holes and lock openings.





I sent the CAD drawings to a machine shop and they cut them out of 16 gauge steel. They also bent them into the correct shape. I did this as I wanted something substantial to hold everything in place other than fiberglass.



These two photos show how the brackets are mounted along with the lock.





The finished product looks like this.





Parts

Triumph GT6 Bonnet Catch Assembly (607663) Qty : 2


Triumph GT6 Bonnet Lock Set (562116) Qty : 1


Unavailable For Now

Drawings

Hole Positioning
Bracket Design
Bracket Cutting

Supplies

Vipel FO10-TBN-28 Vinyl Ester Resin I tried other vinyl ester resins with various and sometimes bad results. This one always worked and worked well. Buy it by the gallon.

MEKP Hardener (Catalyst) Plan to get enough MEKP to match the quantity of resin you purchase. You will mix the resin with 1.25% of MEKP. I like to purchase a container which has a flip/drip top.

Digital Scale I use a digital scale to measure my mixes of resin and hardener. I used one that I got at the local store which reads in grams. I usually only mix 150g of resin at a time. then I add 2 grams of hardener.

Mixing Containers You don't need to purchase any mixing containers, you might have a supply in house. I used containers that came with Chinese food deliveries. Just wash and use.

Resin Brushes You need to use natural brushes or ones that are marked for resin. Plastic and synthetic might not work. Also look for brushes that have the metal attached to the wooden handles with staples, not nails.

If you have a gear driven speedometer system and you have modified either the tires or the rear end gears, then you might have to change the gear(s) to get the correct information.

Ford Racing has a chart and information on this in their parts catalog. (You can click on the image for a larger and clearer view.)

As an example, I will do the calculations for my current setup.

I have a TKO-600 transmission, 3.55 rear end gears and Toyo T1R 265/40ZR17 Tires.

Drive Gear Teeth : 7 All TKO transmissions use 7 teeth drive gears.

Axle Ratio : 3.55 In my case it is 3.55 because of my rear end choice. This number isn't always exact due to rounding and you could use the teeth on the gears themselves to get a more exact number.

Tire Rev. Per Mile : 821 You can usually find this number on the tire manufactures website. You might have to do some digging. On the Toyo website for the tires I am using, after getting the detailed specifications, I found my number.

So using the formula

7 x 3.55 x 821 / 1000 = 20.401

I get 20.401 which rounds down to 20. Since the number isn't exact, then there will be a discrepancy in your actual speed. You can calculate the speedometer error by comparing the calculated number vs the actual number of teeth you used.

Looking at the table, I need to use a C1DZ-17271-A or black gear for my setup.

One of the things that needs to be done after you build your Factory Five car is to get it registered. Each province is different. These are the steps to register it in Nova Scotia.

1. In Nova Scotia, a kit car is treated as a reconstructed vehicle. You need to go to an Access Nova Scotia location to pick up the correct form. The form is (Form MV501 / APP10 REV. 04/92).

To download the form, click on the following link.

Registration of a Reconstructed_Vehicle

2. Fill in the first part of the form using your name, address, city and county.

3. Fill in lines 1 to 3.

In line 1, put the Year as the year you completed the vehicle. The Make is Factory Five. The Model should be the name of the model that you purchased from Factory Five. Body Type and License Plate Number should be left blank.

In line 2, you should put Factory Five Racing of Wareham, Massachusetts, USA.

In line 3, the Serial Number should be the number on the COO (Certificate of Origin) that you got from Factory Five. Put Factory Five Racing of Wareham, Massachusetts, USA in the other fields.

4. In line 6, check No.



5. You will need to take three photographs of you car. Take one from the front, side and rear. These will be enclosed with the form when you submit it to Registry of Motor Vehicles.

6. Take the completed form to a Barrister or Commissioner of the Supreme Court of Nova Scotia to be signed

7. Once it is signed mail the form and photographs to the address on the form.

8. The process will take 6 to 8 weeks to be completed. Once the application is approved, they will want you to get your vehicle inspected by an engineer. You don't have to wait for the approval to get the inspection. For the inspection contact:

David Hoar
Motion Design Assoc Ltd.
PO Box 1074 Station A
Fredericton, NB
E3B 5GA

Tel: 506-458-9741